All I want for Christmas is a 20 inch tire

Our rescuer

Chiang Mai 2 and more rural areas

Am starting this post at the bus station in Chiang Mai. Another 'learning experience' this morning, when we proudly hailed a Song Thaew ( Craig did!), who took us here despite us rolling the bikes, and carrying the backpacks.  Then we found out the first several morning buses were sold out. We have tickets for the next one, and are following the advice given at a Thai bicycling web site, and can only hope we can charm, (and maybe bribe?), the driver's assistant, to accept our bikes in the luggage area. We will still have to find another local bus once we arrive in Chiang Rai, to take us closer to tonight's stay in Thoeng. Am determined not to take the guest house host up on his/her offer of picking us up in Chiang Rai, because we were given a rip off price quote for this service, when I had asked about info on the local buses.

Link to Chiang Mai 2+

Chiang Mai 1

I am sorry, but believe the pictures in the link might be even more out of order than in the past. Have not had a chance to try to figure this out.

Chiang Mai is definitely more manageable than Bangkok, but we haven't biked yet after a week here. Instead, we have taken advantage of our friend Muffy's kindness, and she has been our tour guide. She knows people everywhere here, and it's great to get first hand info, and to benefit from her knowledge of wonderful restaurants & cafes, laundry options, local transport systems etc.
The city is big, busy, and dusty enough, that we probably won't try to ride from the guest house, despite my initial plans. LOTS of traffic, of every type, and everyone regularly weaves in, out, and around each other.

Link to Chiang Mai 1

Bangkok

We have spent 1 full day, and 2 half days in central Bangkok. The city is huge, some 8.3 million people. We have walked in some poor areas, very close to tourist sights, and these areas remind me of Kathmandu 20+ years ago, more than any other place I have been. But no roaming animals, except dogs, cats, and pigeons, which look identical to ours at home.

Link to Bangkok

We get scammed in Bangkok

3 times! On our first day!

Tasmania 3

After 6 or 7 days with 10/10 weather, it finally rained. The fields look like they need it, and we were happy to hang out at the house, run errands, walk around Hobart some more (and literally smell the roses!), and to visit especially MONA.

The Museum of Old and New Art is relatively new, and was highly recommended by Heather's friends in Brisbane. Craig read tourism has increased in Hobart since it opened. We very much enjoyed it. The grounds, and the building itself are interesting; I loved the beautiful sandstone walls inside one part of the museum, much of the art was a bit too far out there for us, but there were many interesting pieces to look at, and definitely worth a visit. It was founded by a wealthy & quirky man, but did not seem as dark as some of the descriptions we saw, and there certainly is a lot to look at.
We again lucked out weather-wise on our last full day in Hobart. We drove to the Tasman peninsula, south east of Hobart, in drizzle, but this stopped. We did a very nice walk out to Cape Hauy, and back. We only did 4.4km x 2, but can see the attraction of a 4-day event our friend Tim participated in a few weeks ago in this same area, called The 3 Capes Walk. They hiked 46km I believe. The Park Service limits hiking in certain areas here, at least partly due to fear of further spread of some fungus which is damaging the plants.
The trail we were on, is easy to follow, and super well maintained. Lots of steps, made with rocks; board walks, and sand laid down in other places. Saw quite a few people out hiking on a Tuesday - mostly retirement age, but several in their 20s, and 30s; no little kids.
Crunchy, our charge at the house, was a very personable, and also spoilt cat. He made it clear he did not like us to be distracted by e.g. reading while petting him. He loved hanging out on Craig's chest, when Craig was stretched out on the couch, and also accepted me - potentially on the days I had fed him... He and Purrcy get the prize for the most fun cats I have met!

Link to Tasmania 3

Link to Craig's Echidna video

Link to sculptures in Deloraine

Tasmania 2

Mt. Wellington, 1 271m, ~4 100', is one of many high peaks in Tasmania. It is essentially in Hobart, and one hike starts in the city.
They warn you of sudden weather changes like we get in the Presidentials at home, incl. snow  at any time of the year.
We did a half a day walk, listed as 4 hrs, along its eastern flank, but didn't go to the top as we had a late start. The views were great all the same. Craig had not yet seen the description of the road to the top, and am afraid he had hoped to ride there. But the road surface is apparently not great, and there's a lot of traffic. Can't say I am that disappointed...

Link to Tasmania 2 pics

Thinking of you

HAPPY THANKSGIVING to everyone at home!!

We just finished our dinner; it's now Thursday night here. Left over veggie lasagna, and a very tasty veggie stir fry with e.g. kale. I'm sure there's someone envious back home..

Craig has said nothing about missing his turkey, but then we are reminded only of Christmas in the stores, and see even Xmas related banners on the street .poles.

Craig is waiting for an opportunity to try a Scallop Pie, which we have seen advertised.
For dessert, I have had almost daily chocolate in Australia, in significant amounts, except for tonight - ran out.

Craig & Ann-Marie

Tasmania 1

Hobart = Hills!
We are staying in Mt. Nelson, which is in the city, only a couple of miles from downtown.
3 straight days of bright sunshine, temp's in the mid 70s (24C), no humidity, and 4 very different outings! We had feared spring here would be cool, but have heard the weather changes on a dime here, just like in New England. So for now we are very happy, and doubt we would like to be here in the summer, when it apparently can be 104F (40C).

Link to Tasmania 1

Hobart house tour - for Engineers

We are house sitting in Hobart Tasmania for a couple of weeks. Tasmanians have largely embraced modern architecture, and you find few pastiche-style houses. I've put together this video focusing on the architecture and construction of the house where we are staying for those who might be interested.

Craig

House tour video

Part 4 in Queensland

Our first house sit was a total success (and our local friend Heather liked the bike ride she joined us on from there, despite earlier comments about how far out in the boonies we were) - but our second house sit was a 'learning experience', and from now on we will always make sure we have plenty of pictures before signing up. We mostly got take outs as I didn't want to cook in the old and messy kitchen, but the sit was only for 4 nights, and now we know.
We lost most of one day to a missing cat at this house,  but if this is the biggest problem of our trip so far, I think we are doing well. The cat finally showed up, and had been hiding indoors all along, when we were afraid he was outside somewhere.
So the next day we left early, and the outdoor time these cats normally enjoy, would have to wait until the owners came home.

Our last week in Queensland

Our 3rd week in Australia, around Helidon

A very low profile Fascinator 

The days are flying by, we still enjoy having a house to ourselves, we try to get some planning done for upcoming places, we are so happy to be able to spend more time with our new friend Heather, we have been on fewer excursions than in prior weeks, but have found beautiful & interesting rides around here, and also walked around a couple of nearby National Parks (smaller than at home, with short, pretty walks), and were surprised by the steep, and rocky trail to the top of Mt. Tabletop near Toowoomba. We thought we headed for a quick walk in the park, with a short climb.

Link to the Helidon area pictures

Around Goodna

We have mostly had gorgeous Queensland spring weather! Bright sunshine, 70-almost 90F, but no humidity, and Craig didn't mind riding yesterday despite the high temperature (there was quite a breeze = headwind.. at times). Approximately 21-30C.
One day we cut the ride short, when we heard hail was on its way, and this turned out to be true. Another day we might have felt 10 rain drops, but this was close to home.
We have ridden west of Brisbane, in beautiful, and hilly horse country. Just like at home, there are large homes, gorgeous gardens and yards, long driveways..
There are few points where you can cross the Brisbane River, some of the bigger roads are not nice to ride on despite there being a bike lane (just lots of traffic and nothing exciting to see), so we could have planned a little better ahead of time. I agree it will be easier to drive to a more remote start now that we have a car.
But we surpassed the 1000-mile mark (1600km) since we left home - not bad considering the fact we only have a couple of days with > 50 miles.

Link to pic's around Goodna

1st week in Australia

Brisbane, Australia - our first week. These notes were written a little at a time.

It's Friday evening, and we arrived in Sydney Sunday night. Craig managed to sleep over 10 hours, which might be a record.
We enjoyed walking around the Botanical Gardens in Sydney for a few hours, before continuing on to Brisbane Monday.

Link to 1st week in Australia

Tofa and Fa'afetai

Tofa All Samoan Islands, and Fa'afetai!!

Our last day here on Tutuila was perfect, and sunny, and Craig never said it was too hot - amazing! I am especially glad, as it rained long and hard last night, and there was a flash flood warning. 

We were lucky to be able to leave the luggage in the cottage for the day, so took the bus, and then walked around Vatia, on the north shore of the island. It's a small, pretty village, on the other side of the central mountain ridge, and the National Park maintains land, and trails here. 

Link to the end of our Samoan experience pic's

Ofu 2

Today we hiked up to the look out, at 1500', a little below the summit of Tumu Mountain. The trail did continue past this point, but we had heard that the view further along, is less exciting than what we had seen from the look out. 

Link to Ofu 2

Our first several days on Ofu

Who would ever have thought we'd            end up here!

Am so glad we ended up coming here last, after having visited several of the other islands in Samoa, and American Samoa.

Ofu, and Olosega are part of American Samoa, and this is paradise, at least for visitors. We wondered how we would manage an entire week on 2 islands, connected by a bridge, with a combined length of maybe 8 miles along the road, and paths east-west. Much narrower north-south. And the central peaks, and the rain forest are impenetrable, except for a couple of trails, one of which hasn't been maintained recently we hear.

Link to Ofu 1 pictures

The end of our Samoan experience

A nice woman, whose English was excellent!

                 She lived in a modest village.

Only a week old.. should not have been separated from her mom

We saw people out rowing these earlier           

We very much enjoyed biking around Savai'i, and Craig survived the hot day through the rain forest along the northern coast. There only is one road around the island, so we backtracked a couple of days to enable us to stay in one location for all but one night.

Link to Leaving Samoa pictures

Savai'i

Brisbane, October 18:
We have had too slow an internet connection to get the pictures uploaded, but have written posts every couple of days, and I have been able to organize my pictures pretty regularly. Craig needs better internet to get his pictures from his phone into the albums I have started, and is trying to get some of his included.

Forgot to say this earlier today.  

                                                           SAVAI'I

After one night in Apia, we rode to the ferry, which took us to Savai'i in 1.5 hours. It was a little choppy midway,  but Craig did well.
Then we had a wonderful tailwind the 34 miles to our beach fale in Satuiatua. Staying here was my idea - a tropical experience, by the turquoise sea, and the coral reef. Craig knew I love falling asleep to the sound of the surf. No bugs! Food is included, our hostess, and her family + village staff, are again all super nice. It is obvious how much effort they put into keeping everything clean, and to make our experience a pleasant one.

Many people in Samoa have a New Zealand connection - moving there for work, or for education. Many move back home, to e.g. care for elderly parents, or to more efficiently manage the role of being the Chief of his clan, which includes managing all land use, for some 100 people in the village. Craig also talked to a local woman who had spent 8 years in Alaska! Close to as different as it gets. Another young woman in American Samoa had spent 10 years in San Antonio, TX due to her husband's job. They had moved back last year, and she said "you can't take the island out of me" - a saying I liked.

 Link to Savai'i

2nd day in A. Samoa, and arrival in Samoa

Pago Pago

The weather continued tropically nice, despite a rainy forecast.
We walked some 3 miles to Fagatele Bay, on the western side of the main island of Tutuila. This bay is part of a Marine Sanctuary, and a National Park. You pay a local youngster $10, to bypass a locked gate on his family's property. We didn't mind, as google tells us this is customary, and we can tell people can use a little extra. Presumably the village this family belongs to, decided to cooperate when the park was established.
Walked through 'jungle' the last bit, climbed down the steep embankment, and had the beach to ourselves! Not as many fish as in Hawaii per Craig. I tried snorkeling here, but am sad to admit I am leery of stronger waves pushing me into the coral, and the sharp rocks. I am used to feeling strong enough to do pretty much what I want, but have to accept my age, and old injuries.
I was impressed when Craig cleaned up trash, filled the bottle, and cleaned sand off his feet this way, rather than use what remained of our treated water. See picture.

Link to 2nd day in American Samoa

Robert Louis Stevenson

We visited the house that Robert Louis Stevenson built for himself on Samoa, and which is now a museum. Robert Louis Stevenson spent the last few years of his life on Samoa where he set himself up as a planter. He interested himself in Samoan affairs and was a fierce critic of colonial maladministration. He even managed to get a couple of the worst offenders fired. He was sympathetic to Samoan culture and helped Samoan rebels who had been imprisoned by the colonial power. Still he was friendly with many of the Western settlers, in particular the governor sent by the United States, Henry Ide. Ide's daughter was disappointed that her birthday was on Christmas day so Stevenson conceived a solution to the problem, a deed of gift as given below:

American Samoa first impressions

The island of Tutuila is as lush, green, and tropical as can be. It's a volcanic island with steep mountains and a narrow coastal  strip where most people reside. We've seen very few tourists and the island doesn't seem to cater for them.
There's a main road that runs East-West along the length of the island. We've traveled most of this (40 km) either walking or by bus. The local buses consist of a wooden bus cabin with seating for 16-24 people grafted onto a truck chassis. They seem to be driver-owned and are decorated to the drivers taste. They all played very loud music, and one bus had a large TV screen for music videos.

Tutuila walking and by bus day 1.

Big Island 5

Today we leave for a night in Honolulu, before continuing on to American Samoa on Friday Sept. 22. We plan to travel also to Samoa, and to the Island of Ofu, and expect not to have regular internet connections. I have been told their service is slow, when available. We arrive in Australia October 15, and hope to catch up with everyone at the latest then!

We are sad to leave the Avocado Tree House - not just a place to sleep, but a destination in itself. Craig gets credit for saying it well.

Link to Big Island 5, our last post from Hawaii.

Big Island 3 and 4

Due to the 'technical difficulties' getting the pictures from the iPad into the blog, I can tell I have not always coordinated the text with the pic's.
We rode 2 days from the Avocado Tree House, through both lush rain forest, and on to lava fields. Then we relaxed at home, ran errands, and walked around Hilo, and the small Lava Tree State Park one day. Lava trees formed when the flowing lava cooled and hardened around burning trees.

Link to Big Island 3 pictures

Link to Big Island 4 pictures

Big Island 2

We just love our stay here at the Avocado Tree House!
It is S. of Hilo, on the wetter, and lush side of the island. Near rainforest, and lava fields, which means few tourists, as most people like the nicer beaches on the west side.
Pahoa is quite the hippie hang out, and Craig read something about FBI fugitives..
Breakfast is included: the best papaya ever, bunches of bananas (shorter, tastier than at home, and might be of the Lady Finger variety per Craig. In Maui, we had Apple Bananas from our host's smaller farm), all the avocados you can eat, oranges &tangerines, star fruit, their own eggs.. Whole grain bread + coffee.

More pictures: Big Island 2 link

The Big Island of Hawaii. 1

It's a drizzly morning, but we could not care less, and our hosts said they need the rain.
We are on an 11 acre organic farm, have total privacy, and the house is by far the most interesting place we have ever stayed at!
Tonight we'll go to Uncle Roberts, very nearby. An evening farmers' market, with food, and music, and several hundred people per my quick google result.
Tomorrow at the latest, we hope to ride around here.
Link to Avocado Tree House pictures

More from Maui

First: we are happy to hear June & Nick, and Roger are OK in Orlando! We feel a bit guilty having fun when the storm hit them. Hope you get the power back very soon!
We leave for the Big Island of Hawaii today,  after spending a nice week here.
The previous post details our bike ride up Mt. Haleakala - which deserved its separate write-up (we admit to having caught summit fever, which can be dangerous). The only picture from that day, is the wet one of Craig on top, already posted.
Will now include a link to the Maui pictures - we are getting better, but I decided it's too complicated to rearrange the order, when I messed things up, so the pictures are only mostly chronological.
Maui pictures

Our Mt. Haleakala Cycling Experience

Haleakala is a 10 023 ft (3055 m) volcanic peak that dominates Maui. We started at 7 am, at 1726' to be precise (which means we cheated c/w the official annual ride here).
30 miles of riding for us.

San Juan pictures

We are still on the learning curve as far as managing the pictures on the IPad, and getting them on to the blog.

San Juans photo album

Clicking on this link, should give you sharp pictures; they may show up in a funny grid format. If so, just click on the first picture (a few times?), and they show up sequentially, full screen size.
You should be able to zoom in to see more detail, as I still haven't learned how to crop them.

We continue to visit with friends, first in Victoria, BC, and now in Seattle. The weather is just perfect, and Craig wants to move here for the summer months.

Off to Hawaii Tuesday.

Addition to THANK YOU post

Here is the 'bouquet' of 8 I wanted to send:

Our San Juan experiences so far

- no pictures yet, Britt, as the internet is so slow that even Craig can't get them uploaded.
- the weather is perfect! Bright blue skies, sunny, 50's to 60 overnight, 70's daytime with no humidity. The locals tell us this is the norm, and that September will be even better, as it's warmer.
- we have seen lots of young deer, rabbits, seals and sea lions today, gorgeous views of islands, evergreens, rocky sea shores, touring cyclists, and hills.

THANK YOU!!!

To Everyone who helped us get this far!

 - To Lotten & Mark, Bob & Kimberley, Phil, Doreen & Michael, and especially to Kim & Chris, who all help store our stuff right now.
- To Muffy, and Elsa &Tom for all your advice, and suggestions on travel.
- To all who helped move furniture...

You were supposed to get a bouquet of road side flowers, and early foliage leaves, but Craig thinks the very slow internet connection here on Orcas, in the woods, up a hill, prevents us from including them today.

We are lucky to have such wonderful friends, and hope we can help you out at some point!
Ann-Marie & Craig

New tenants

Our tenants moved in Monday.

They are three grad students from the University of Connecticut who were looking for a quiet place way from campus. We are glad to have our house being looked after by such nice people.

Itinerary (so far)

 

This is our itinerary so far

= Depart Boston Aug 23

= Puget Sound

     - Seattle Aug 23

     - Orcas Island (San Juan Islands) Aug 24 - 31

     - Victoria, BC Sept 1 - 2

     - Seattle Sept 3 - 4

= Hawaii

     - Maui Sept 5 - 11

     - Big Island Sept 12 - 20

     - Honolulu Sept 21

= Samoa Sept 22 - Oct 13

     - American Samoa (Tutuila) Sept 22  - 24

     - Apia, Samoa Sept 26 - 27

     - Savai'i, Samoa Sept 28 - Oct 3

     - Apia Oct 4 

     - Tutuila  Oct 4 - 5

     - Ofu Island (American Samoa) Oct 5 - 12

     - Tutuila Oct 13

= Australia
     - Sydney Oct 14

     - Brisbane, SE Queensland Oct 15 - Nov 15

     - Hobart, Tasmania Nov 16 - 29

     - Launceston, Tasmania Nov 30 - Dec 5

= Thailand Dec 6 - Jan 4

     - Bangkok Dec 6-7

     - Chiang Mai Dec 8-18
     - Thoeng Dec 19-21
     - Pua Dec 26-30
     - Chiang Mai Dec 31 - Jan 2
= Laos
   - Luang Prabang Jan 3-6, 11
   - Muang Ngoy Jan 7-10. Trekking from Lattanavongsa guesthouse
= Thailand
   - Hua Hin Jan 12-17
   - Chiang Mai Jan 18-28
= Cambodia
   - Siem Reap Jan 29-Feb 4
= Vietnam
   - Hanoi Feb 4-5
   - Nimh Binh Feb 5-
   - Ha Long bay Feb
= New Zealand
   - Christchurch & South Island Feb 16-?
   - Havelock North Island Mar 27 - April 6
= Bhutan
   - Han valley trek April 24 - May 4
= South Africa
   -  Madikwe Game Reserve Jun 8-13

That's far as we've planned in detail. We want to be in SE Asia through February as that is the not-so-hot time of the year there. Then we'll head to New Zealand in March/April. We are looking into Bhutan in late April/early May, and we have to commit by the end of December. After that, we're thinking about South Africa and maybe Namibia.

Itinerary

Itinerary August 23, 2017 to July 7 2018