Bariloche

It’s not only the mountains that make you feel small 

Refugio Lopez

It has become too challenging to transfer my pictures from the camera to the iPad. My link, below, includes the first 2-3 days. Craig is confident we can fix this problem at home, so for now I am guarding my old SD card with my life, and hope a new card will help.

The ‘beauty’ of bus travel - no prepaid reservations. We had booked a week at a little house here in Bariloche, in the Lake District of Argentina. Our week is turning into 2.5 weeks because we like it so much here. Instead of continuing to Chile by bus as planned, we’ll fly to southern Patagonia directly from here.

Bariloche is in the northern part of Patagonia, and spring had arrived in this part of the Andes. We were assured most of the snow on the hiking trails we would go on, would have melted, and that they were dealing with strong winds instead.
We rented a car, and driving into town from the airport, we were in awe of the beautiful landscape. Lots of colorful wildflowers lined the road, and Bariloche sits on the shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi [from a local language meaning the island of the jaguar (puma)]. The lake is in a National Park by the same name, and we are at an elevation of 770 m (2500’).

Link to Bariloche picture - incomplete

We are surrounded by snow covered mountain tops, the lakes are clear and bright blue, as is the sky. Several days have been unbelievably bright and sunny - everything is totally sharp and clear. Our cloudy days have all had some sun.
We are doing day hikes both along lakes and streams, and have ventured up to a couple of the lower peaks for beautiful views. The trail network is extensive, and multi day  excursions are possible. There are huts higher in the mountains, kind of like the AMC ones at home, but we will not do overnighters. Both because it most likely would be too challenging for me, and because we prefer to return to our nice shower, warm bed and home made dinners with wine and chocolate.

Many keys are required despite the house being in a very nice, central part of town.

You see people with kayaks on their cars, people out hiking, running and biking. There are ‘typical’ tourists as well, and the town is known for its chocolate factories!
The day we drove to a little touristy town across the lake from here, Villa La Angostura, we saw lots of people taking part in an ultramarathon race, like brevets in cycling. They hiked 110, 160 or 200km in 80 hours - unsupported! They carry their gear, helmets seemed to be required, presumably because we see signs warning against falling trees and branches. Headlights, poles, climbing ropes?, and very small packs.

From the google translation of the event page I understood finishing is the goal - it’s you against the terrain and the elements. Bad weather does not cancel the event, they cross streams, climb over high peaks, and when we saw them they were walking along the main road into town. Even without any injuries, and when much younger, we would not have undertaken this event - so no regrets we didn’t know to sign up!
3 people looked oddly at me when I tried to ask them what they were taking part in - because the google translation of ‘race’ gave me the Spanish word for ‘ethnicity’...  Craig then remembered  ‘carrera’ means a race - from an automobile such he had read about.

One evening we had the pleasure of meeting Martina, the daughter of our new friends in Colonia! She likes the atmosphere here, and had prepared a list of walks and hikes for us - very helpful and kind of her. Maybe we’ll have to come back one day if she establishes her baking business (!) while also working as a Psychologist for children.

We felt stupid and irresponsible our first day walking an easy trail in the Llao Llao Park. A very sweet and clean dog we initially thought belonged to 2 women we passed, joined us. We met a ranger, and I tried to explain the dog wasn’t ours- because I thought dogs weren’t allowed off leash. He was not interested, and said something about dogs being a problem. Later we met an English speaking man who seemed to have made his belt into a leash - he said the dog clearly was lost. We thanked him for helping this friendly dog. All ends well, because still further along, we met 2 Spanish speaking hikers who now used the same leash, and had been smart enough to call the owner, whose phone number was on the dog’s collar. Must have been a happy reunion.

Am glad we again brought our light-weight and sturdy yellow bag for groceries. Seems everyone here uses their own bag, or takes a cardboard box from the store. But the selection in the supermarkets is not great - they often have more wine than veggies..
Gluten free is advertised on all kinds of products, they buy mate leaves by the kg also in Argentina, and we found tofu in a ‘dietetica’ shop - where they also sell bulk grains, nuts, dried fruit etc. We make our meals regularly now, and have a few more days in our last house here before we fly south on the 21st.

The poplars are presumably planted to help protect from the strong winds here.