I don’t think we had heard of this area until friends George&Lynell, and Carolyn &Tom told us about their beautiful Markha Valley Trek a few years ago. So we came here, as we like recommendations from friends, it is close to Bhutan, and the timing was perfect considering our next destination.
Link to Leh, Ladakh
We are working with the same guide our friends recommended, and he agreed early May could be a little early considering the potential for snow in the passes. But he said we could do other hikes should that be the case.
This area is in northern India, by the Himalaya. We are in a safe part despite being close to problematic areas, and tourism is booming here after a recent successful Bollywood movie. Lots of hotels and guest houses being built.
The weather is not their typical for this season here either. They had less snow than normally, so the passes are clear. But it is colder than normally, like below freezing at night, and in the 40s (<10C) daytime. When the sun comes out it warms up very quickly, but unfortunately we have seen little sun except the first 1-2 days.
The hotel is basic, and like presumably all but the 1-2 luxury ones, unheated. In Bhutan, we had space heaters, so were much warmer. They build the local homes from mud bricks, and the tourist lodges from cement. They are now adding public sewage and water to the touristy parts. But 2 comforters, and bike tights allow us to sleep well.
Our altitude problems unfortunately continue. We have tried to follow every conceivable recommendation. We have had a great guide in Leh. Mindu is 1 out of 2 female guides here. She has shown us around as part of the acclimatization process. She is hoping to get in to a PhD program in history come summer.
A few local facts: - women, including the younger generation, wear the traditional dress after they marry. Mindu feels this will preserve traditions. But until they marry, they wear western clothing. Guys don’t differentiate.
- this is a place where several religions co-exist peacefully. The Ladakhi people are mostly Bhuddist, but there also are Muslims, and Hindus.
- the history is far too complicated for me to remember, but there are many different peoples, who belonged to different kingdoms before the British colonized the area.
- even current, modern households here have a summer kitchen, and a winter kitchen - the latter around a wood, and cow dung burning stove. There is an outdoor tap for every 2-3 households, and you carry in buckets of water.
- there is no family pressure here to marry before 30, like there is in many parts of India.
- all kids can go to school, and like in Bhutan, they learn 2 alphabets from the start.
- there are lots of tour companies in town, and Mindu believes no further permits will be issued for now.
Am rushing to finish this before we leave for a modified trek after breakfast. I hope the nice view from our room again, with sun, bodes well for us! It certainly is nicer to head out when it doesn’t seem like we could have snow or hail any minute. It was 1 C, 34 F less than an hour ago per google.
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